Thursday, 9 May 2013

Revisit the rear brake banjo clearance

Revisit the rear brake banjo clearance

I have been aware for some time that the clearance between the rear calliper banjo and the drive shaft boot was not enough. I was prepared to submit it for the IVA test with 2.5mm (NS) and 3.5mm (OS) basically because I had run out of ideas on how to fix it. While waiting for an IVA date nickm raised a thread about this issues and can be found at:

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/26/viewthread.php?tid=181227

The rear calliper is a low cost light weight part from the VW Passat parts bin it has been remanufactured for Rally Design under the Hydra OEM handbrake calliper description. The issue is that to use this calliper you need the original low profile VW banjo. The banjo supplied by RD with the calliper is 12mm thick with a 12mm x 1mm  bolt and seals.

With much chewing of fat with the current  Locost J15 builders I found a manufacturer of a compatible banjo 9mm thick called HEL and a supplier called hosesolutions that will make any hose you like if you supply the specification (assuming they have the ends). In this case they have a low profile 12mm x 9mm banjo (probably from a motor bike).

My specification is as follows:

* Length including fittings 320mm
* 12mm x 9mm (thick) banjo
* 3/8" x 24 unf bulkhead male convex
* VW Passat rear calliper compatible banjo bolts and seals M12 x 1mm

The part was delivered in 24hrs and the quality is so good I want the others changed after IVA.

In summary I now have 7.5 -8.5 mm clearance between the drive shaft boot and the banjo bolt.









RD vs HEL part

HEL part with modified banjo bolt

References

Locost: http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/26/viewthread.php?tid=181227
HEL: www.hosesolutions.co.uk
Contents: http://sylvabuild.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/sylva-j15-is-kit-car-designed-by-jeremy.html

Sunday, 31 March 2013

Trim

Trim

Grill

Uneventful, decided to use 7mm high gloss alloy mesh from ebay. Applied a rubber edging trim to the rough grp bonnet edges and then hold the mesh on with small cable ties.

Seats

The driver seat was temporarily installed for some time now however with the looming IVA application I needed to do something about the seat belts apertures as they needed to come through the MK engineering seats at a different location. I am not going to bore you with detail but the apertures have now been moved. This was the last really difficult problem to solve in the build.

Wheel centres

The wheels are from a Ford Mondeo Verona and the wheel centres have an indent for an oval Ford badge which thanks to Keyfactors on line provided me with a SYLVA badge with the same dimensions. Keyfactors was chosen as they accepted my jpg artwork as I wanted to keep the lettering font consistent with the bonnet badge.

GRP central tub

This area has been a problem for some time as you have to cut the central tub to allow space for the roll bar. It is not easy to finish off so I cut some small grp filler panels and sealed it all with flame red Silicone. I also found some piping from a Dax Cobra supplier on ebay that supplied the trim for the outer perimeter sharp edge.

Cockpit panels

On all the alloy panels I used cbs 4.5 x 25mm piping, glued it to one half and then either riveted/rivnut the panel to the frame. It gives a pleasing finish to a difficult but necessary area of the build.

Harnesses

I purchased the harnesses from Prima Motor Sport, they are a very helpful company and market the FIA compliant harnesses under the Titon label. Unfortunately the J15 central tub is smaller than a 7 style car and this makes the belts smaller. I have the same seats in my Westfield and I did not come across this problem. I had 2-3" removed from the straps and I had to get anchor plates instead of compact hooks. The chap at Prima was really helpful and quick at making the changes. These harnesses are also IVA compliant and a good statement to this effect on their web page.

To-do

There is still a large snagging sheet, IVA application has gone in no date yet. I am doing a dummy run at the MoT station next week.

References

Keyfactors badges and emblems: www.keyfactors.co.uk
Prima Motorsport: http://www.primamotorsport.com/prima_motorsport_products/kit_car/kit_car_harness.html
Dax trim:
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/djsportscardax?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

Contents: http://sylvabuild.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/sylva-j15-is-kit-car-designed-by-jeremy.html

Test run: http://youtu.be/ZkWvduzM8zE


Wheel centre trim

 

Grill

 

GRP seat fitting

 

Black piping

 

Centre tub trim panel



Tuesday, 19 March 2013

Bonnet stays, fog and reverse lights

Bonnet stay, fog and reverse lights

Front bonnet stay

I purchased a CBS bonnet stay 300 - 530mm on the grounds that one of the build pictures featured on on the Sylva demo car had it fitted. After investigating this arrangement I decided that the suggested method of mounting (one of the build pics)  was far too complicated. Instead I opted to place the brackets adjacent to the petrol tank. It was surprisingly easy to mount it here for something I have been avoiding for months. I subsequently found a hazard in that a gust of wind can collapse the bonnet by triggering the latch on successive gusts. I have modified the stay to include a fail safe latch part to the latch.

Rear bonnet stay

I have used a horse box towing tether to stop the rear tub touching the ground. I have two lengths of stay a short and a long say. The short one needs no adjustment to the exhaust and allows access to check the oil and water. The longer stay needs the exhaust tail rotated but gives mush better access to the engine bay.

Fog and reverse lights

The mounting of the rear fog and reverse light mountings as the suggested location is remarkably close to my exhaust hot bits. I decided to make up some ss heat deflectors that hide some of the exhaust plumbing. I then attached the LED light units to the deflectors.

Exhaust

Decided to try out the exhaust for the first time fully welded up. Some shots of the car in my workshop. It was snowing outside:http://youtu.be/2A36uziawaM

 References

* CBS Bonnet & Boot Lid Stay Large Ref. Code: BNSTY 300mm- 530mm
* Contents list: http://sylvabuild.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/sylva-j15-is-kit-car-designed-by-jeremy.html

Exhaust finally welded up

Bonnet stay anchor

Bonnet stay attachment

Bonnet stay retracted and unattached

Rear bonnet stay

Saturday, 16 March 2013

Mirrors, exhaust and wheels

Mirrors, exhaust and wheels


Mirrors

The mirrors recommended by the manufacturer are from a Yamaha YZFR1 motor bike. The trouble is, the after market ones I bought off flea-bay, had no compliance markings and a troublesome 2 hole fixing. They did have a good antiknock feature. It was obvious to me this fixing method although adequate would take a minor miracle to get them drilled in the right position first time. The adjustment range was minimal once in place.  Most motorbike mirrors have a single M10 x 1.25mm fixing thread giving lots of angular adjustment that can be locked off with a special nut and plastic shroud for the IVA man.

PaulAS from the Locost forum started a thread which highlights all the problems with wing mirrors and the J15. All I can say is thanks,  without that thread I would have gone down the same rat hole as everyone else. Paul came up with some compliant mirrors with the correct markings that are also very cheap from the Furore parts supplier. The key issue is the correct position of the mirror although less critical than with the other mirrors it needs to be in line with the ridge in the GRP moulding and 160mm back from the bulkhead (exactly). If you don't put it there it restricts your ability to access it easily and will not give an ideal field of view in other positions.

I decided to cut away the GRP mirror mounting position with a 22mm hole saw. A bold step I realise but I wanted more resilience from the GRP panel. I turned a stepped and threaded aluminium section that filled the hole again and provided a reinforcement to the GRP panel where the mirrors are mounted (with the addition of PU adhesive of course). The purpose of this is to provide a location strong enough to survive a small knock. You will have to view all the pictures of all this before it all makes sense and I strongly advise looking at the PaulAS thread on the Locost forum. In future I may add a break-away spring for the odd knock from everyday use. I still like the Yahama mirrors but they would have to fit in with my reinforced GRP turning, perhaps they can be modified post IVA.

Exhaust

I decided to tack weld the tail section myself. I will decide at a later date if I am brave enough to weld it up (obviously to to the same standard as Graden of Stainless creations). The reason for the two stage approach is I could not work out earlier where I wanted the tail section to exit and I wanted to test fire the engine before fitting the GRP panels. The choice of a Westfield 5" can from my SEIW was in fact a good choice (and no longer temporary) as it has a built in CAT.

When I ran the engine for the first time with the boot/rear GRP moulding in place (I could only do this for the first time with the exhaust tail section tacked in place) I found the GRP moulding getting too hot, over 40degC and climbing. I managed to source an extra large  500mm x 500mm reflector and insulating panel for a Motorbike fairing supplier on eBay  which cured the problem.

Wheels

The wheel choice was made earlier but I have only just had them back from the refurbishers painted in mat black of course. They are off a Mondeo Verona and now they are on the car for the first time they look great (many thanks to Angus who found them on eBay). I was struggling with the wheels choice they now suit the car (no compromise) in my opinion. They could do with a little Sylva motif, later! The wheel are 6J x 15 x 40 the tyres are 185 x 55 x 15 Yokohama AD08's

Other activities

I have also been doing a lot of small and not so small tidying up jobs like the fuel system cover panel, tank one way up-side-down valve, steering wheel extension, sharp edge avoidance trim etc When the weather perks up a bit I plan to test the brakes, Video to follow!

References

Furore mirrors:http://furoreproducts.co.uk/85-e-marked-mirrors-iva-ok.html
Locost forum:http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/26/viewthread.php?tid=178579
Alloy Finihings:http://beta.glasgowwestendextra.co.uk/findit?action=showPlace&placeid=2234140
Road and Race:http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Road-and-Race-Online?_trksid=p2047675.l2563
Contents:http://sylvabuild.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/sylva-j15-is-kit-car-designed-by-jeremy.html



I still have a way to go:-

* Weld exhaust up finaly
* Fit seat belts (find bolts first - scrap yard)
* Finish interior trim panels
* Fog and reverse lights
* Front grill
* Seat trim and mods for seat belts
* Brake test and balance bar lock off
* Bonnet stays
* Final wiring tidy
* Upper GRP tub edging trim
* Engine air filter
* Throttle cable fixings
* MoT verification test


Verona wheels

Mirror location 160mm from bulkhead + fixing unattached

Fixing attached

Shroud lowered

Haet shield on rear tub

Exhaust tacked up




Wednesday, 6 March 2013

Catches and trim panels

Catches and trim panels


The Sylva has some very large tubs front and back, one to enclose the front suspension and the other to enclose the engine. Much trouble was taken to fit these as the dimensions like most GRP mouldings is not perfect so some fettling was necessary. I found some Triumph TR2 bonnet cone rubbers on ebay that helped align the tubs when closing. I used Aero catches to secure the tubs. I think the Aero catches are a well designed product in terms of IVA compliance even if they are lacking a bit of robustness.

I set aside a day for fitting the catches and even that overran, the precision required demands lots of time. A significant amount of time was spent deciding exactly where to put the attachment brackets below the catches. You need about 75mm of free space although 60 mm (I think) is the minimum if you chop down the rubber part.

I also made up most of the internal panel work, two cover pates at elbow level and two closing plates behind the seats. I also put two inspection panels in there to provide some storage on a long run.

Also changed the bezzel colour of the gauges to silver from black.

Protective film removed
Offside trim panels
Front Aero catches
Rear Areo catches
Front Areo catch bracket
Rear Aero catch bracket
All I need now is the exhaust fitted properly so I can test the brakes.

References:

Contents http://sylvabuild.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/sylva-j15-is-kit-car-designed-by-jeremy.html

Sunday, 24 February 2013

GRP body panel fitting

GRP body panel fitting

There are five major GRP panels to fit, the key to a successful assembly is to temporarily join the two sills and the upper central moulding, taped together using Gorilla tape (which is superior to duct tape). The front and rear tubs are then offered up and the position of all of these is adjusted and held in place initially with Gorilla tape and wooden blocks till the gluing stage.

After initial placement, and assuming you have optimal initial placement, you can start drilling holes to fix the sills and central moulding in place a little less tentatively. There is so much depending on the central moulding it was/is not wise to glue this in place at this time.

In terms of complexity and rigour this is the most difficult set of operations on the whole build.

Tasks I have now (must have) completed at this stage:

* Front and rear hinges for the bonnet and engine shroud glued in place.
* Sill end closure plates front and back
* Front and rear harnesses and any attachment to GRP panels.
* Throttle cable routing
* Battery fuse box final bolt down
* Battery holder in place at front near side void
* Heater air duct to driver side only of course
* Brake reservoir mountings
* Rear aero catch locating pin brackets
* Rear alignment pins/buffers
* Front and rear internal access panels
* Wiring fixes/completion/ testing

Corner closure plate fabrication

The Sylva at first sight has very little luggage space, unlike the Westfield which at least has a small boot box. But after thinking about it, the offside sill is completely unused in my build. The Near side sill has the ECU, Battery fuse box and the battery itself. However there is even a space in that sill at the rear, provided you set the closing panels far enough back.

I decided to move the suggested position of closure panels away from that in the build blog to a position to maximise storage space. The space provided by this strategy exceeds that of my Westfield by a good margin. As there was nothing to attach the closing plates to in these locations, I needed to make some alloy curved angle plates which would be bonded to the GRP with Tiger Seal or the like.

 I borrowed a shrinking machine for this operation from Aliblast (the chap that did my chassis preparation). I made up 20mm x 40mm angle sections in the bender then fed them into the shrinker on one side. This has the effect of curving the angle section. With some practise you can form any shape within reason. I made 6 curved plates in all if you include the internal access panels behind the seat.

The rear hidden closure plates  were a real challenge requiring approx 3 attempts to get them right and water tight. The front closure plates doubles as mud guards for the front wheels.

Alignment pins/buffers

I used some parts off ebay for a Triumph TR4/6 bonnet locating cones/buffers made of rubber and bonded on to a unf threaded bolt. A wheel nut and a 19mm socket acted as a tool to shape the receiving plate for the buffers.

Lights

All the lights were installed and tested at this stage, I went down the road of installing an LED E marked numberplate light,  wrong move, it did not illuminate the whole of the numberplate. The only one I found (and I tried 3 different types) is one from a Freelander and it illuminates the whole plate because it has two bulbs. To attach the wiring to the grp I used some fibre glass tube and glued them on. The repeaters were attached to the front movable bonnet using the same heat resistant sleving.

Wheels

I had trouble understanding the wheel size and tyre options on the Sylva J15. It is determined at the rear by the clearance between the tyre and the GRP rear panel in one direction (Inset) and the mudguard overhang in the other (Poke). I contacted Jeremy and he recommends 185/55/15 on the rear and a slightly smaller tyre size on the front. The wheel size is recommended to be 6J x15" this is mainly driven by the choice or rear calliper. People with 14" wheels do not use the Passat calliper, or they modify it. I put all the data into an on line analyser by Jonathan Rowney(*) and low and behold the problems and restrictions became clear. The data I used other than the standard wheel and tyre stuff is Inner Offset/Inset = 138mm and the Poke/Outer offset is 50mm. In order to get the wheels I already had lying about, with 35mm offset,  to fit, was by using 24mm spacers on the rear (I do not know why these spacers are necessary, it is not indicated in the build manual, but they are absolutely necessary on my build). The ideal offset (see on line calculator) with the spacers on the rear is 40mm, front and back, and happens to be the offset that Jeremy recommends. I had a wondrous time trying to find wheels at an economic price with the correct offset but eventually it boiled down to two choices s/h off ebay mainly due to cost. Escort GTI in Cosworth form and wheels from a Mondeo Venora both have a 40mm offset. I chose the Veora wheels because they are not only cheap £100 delivered but also look great (picture to follow).The wheels are currently being refurbished by Alloy Finishings in Airdrie. I have ordered 185/55/15 Yokohama AD08 tyres from Camiskill.

Note: I only arrived at the above solution by making some adjustments to the suspension, otherwise the Inset was too restrictive. If you have trouble in this area mail me.
Old numberplate light

Freelander light




Offside rear

Offside front

Shrinking tool

dash area hydralic resivoir fixing
 This area is not very accessible after the centre GRP panel is fitted, access limited from underneath!
Dash area speedo area
 This area is accessible after the centre moulding is in place covered by access panel

Front offside dashboard fuse box and switches

Offside rear closure

Nearside rear closing

Wiring outlet to engine

Front near battery box
Rear engine cover alignment pin/rubber
Access panels x 4off
Panels now fitted to each corner to gain access to the hidden space

Still to do before my next outing

* Seal grp top panel to sills
* Aero catches front and back 4 off
* Alignment pins/rubbers at front as per rear engine cover successful experiment
* Steering cover panel
* Exhaust

Hopefully Angus will take another video

References(*)

Access panels: http://www.jupiterblue.co.uk/plastic-circular-access-panel
Offset calculator: http://www.jonathanrowny.com/page/offset-calculator
Alloy Finishings 01236 440411

Contents http://sylvabuild.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/sylva-j15-is-kit-car-designed-by-jeremy.html









 



Saturday, 26 January 2013

The foot brake final assembly

The foot brake final assembly


The Sylva J15 has two separate master cylinders and a balance bar. The shape of the bonnet is such that the location of brake reservoir needs to be behind the tank next to the bulkhead otherwise you cannot get sufficient head of fluid (in my opinion). In my case this was a real challenge as my custom tank leaves very little room for the smallest of reservoirs that I could find.

There is also the favourite issue with the balance bar, in that it needs to be wired and an appropriate warning label added.The threads on the balance bar are M11 x 1.25, as it turns out I have a tap and dye for that size so I made some special nuts out of hex bar with locking holes in each hex corner and a turned down bit to lock the bar (see images). I do not claim originality here but I am pleased with the result. It was another item I was not confident about solving elegantly.

I did expect trouble with the RD Euroqip flexible brake pipes, as I had some trouble with the one on the clutch line leaking due to a shard of the ss outer getting into the olive, but this time all eight connectors worked first time. The only leak I had was a poor silver solder job on the lines I made up for the reservoir.

I did have trouble getting the air out of the system, despite my wife's best efforts on the brake pedal. I used my Easybleed and got the air out. I hate using the Easybleed as I find it difficult to control the mess with all that fluid around.

All i need to do now is adjust the balance bar and wire the lock nuts. the images showing the locking wire are for demonstration purposes should the IVA man need convincing.





 



 References