GRP body panel fitting

GRP body panel fitting

There are five major GRP panels to fit, the key to a successful assembly is to temporarily join the two sills and the upper central moulding, taped together using Gorilla tape (which is superior to duct tape). The front and rear tubs are then offered up and the position of all of these is adjusted and held in place initially with Gorilla tape and wooden blocks till the gluing stage.

After initial placement, and assuming you have optimal initial placement, you can start drilling holes to fix the sills and central moulding in place a little less tentatively. There is so much depending on the central moulding it was/is not wise to glue this in place at this time.

In terms of complexity and rigour this is the most difficult set of operations on the whole build.

Tasks I have now (must have) completed at this stage:

* Front and rear hinges for the bonnet and engine shroud glued in place.
* Sill end closure plates front and back
* Front and rear harnesses and any attachment to GRP panels.
* Throttle cable routing
* Battery fuse box final bolt down
* Battery holder in place at front near side void
* Heater air duct to driver side only of course
* Brake reservoir mountings
* Rear aero catch locating pin brackets
* Rear alignment pins/buffers
* Front and rear internal access panels
* Wiring fixes/completion/ testing

Corner closure plate fabrication

The Sylva at first sight has very little luggage space, unlike the Westfield which at least has a small boot box. But after thinking about it, the offside sill is completely unused in my build. The Near side sill has the ECU, Battery fuse box and the battery itself. However there is even a space in that sill at the rear, provided you set the closing panels far enough back.

I decided to move the suggested position of closure panels away from that in the build blog to a position to maximise storage space. The space provided by this strategy exceeds that of my Westfield by a good margin. As there was nothing to attach the closing plates to in these locations, I needed to make some alloy curved angle plates which would be bonded to the GRP with Tiger Seal or the like.

 I borrowed a shrinking machine for this operation from Aliblast (the chap that did my chassis preparation). I made up 20mm x 40mm angle sections in the bender then fed them into the shrinker on one side. This has the effect of curving the angle section. With some practise you can form any shape within reason. I made 6 curved plates in all if you include the internal access panels behind the seat.

The rear hidden closure plates  were a real challenge requiring approx 3 attempts to get them right and water tight. The front closure plates doubles as mud guards for the front wheels.

Alignment pins/buffers

I used some parts off ebay for a Triumph TR4/6 bonnet locating cones/buffers made of rubber and bonded on to a unf threaded bolt. A wheel nut and a 19mm socket acted as a tool to shape the receiving plate for the buffers.

Lights

All the lights were installed and tested at this stage, I went down the road of installing an LED E marked numberplate light,  wrong move, it did not illuminate the whole of the numberplate. The only one I found (and I tried 3 different types) is one from a Freelander and it illuminates the whole plate because it has two bulbs. To attach the wiring to the grp I used some fibre glass tube and glued them on. The repeaters were attached to the front movable bonnet using the same heat resistant sleving.

Wheels

I had trouble understanding the wheel size and tyre options on the Sylva J15. It is determined at the rear by the clearance between the tyre and the GRP rear panel in one direction (Inset) and the mudguard overhang in the other (Poke). I contacted Jeremy and he recommends 185/55/15 on the rear and a slightly smaller tyre size on the front. The wheel size is recommended to be 6J x15" this is mainly driven by the choice or rear calliper. People with 14" wheels do not use the Passat calliper, or they modify it. I put all the data into an on line analyser by Jonathan Rowney(*) and low and behold the problems and restrictions became clear. The data I used other than the standard wheel and tyre stuff is Inner Offset/Inset = 138mm and the Poke/Outer offset is 50mm. In order to get the wheels I already had lying about, with 35mm offset,  to fit, was by using 24mm spacers on the rear (I do not know why these spacers are necessary, it is not indicated in the build manual, but they are absolutely necessary on my build). The ideal offset (see on line calculator) with the spacers on the rear is 40mm, front and back, and happens to be the offset that Jeremy recommends. I had a wondrous time trying to find wheels at an economic price with the correct offset but eventually it boiled down to two choices s/h off ebay mainly due to cost. Escort GTI in Cosworth form and wheels from a Mondeo Venora both have a 40mm offset. I chose the Veora wheels because they are not only cheap £100 delivered but also look great (picture to follow).The wheels are currently being refurbished by Alloy Finishings in Airdrie. I have ordered 185/55/15 Yokohama AD08 tyres from Camiskill.

Note: I only arrived at the above solution by making some adjustments to the suspension, otherwise the Inset was too restrictive. If you have trouble in this area mail me.

Old numberplate light

Freelander light

Offside rear

Offside front

Shrinking tool

dash area hydralic resivoir fixing

 This area is not very accessible after the centre GRP panel is fitted, access limited from underneath!

Dash area speedo area

 This area is accessible after the centre moulding is in place covered by access panel

Front offside dashboard fuse box and switches

Offside rear closure

Nearside rear closing

Wiring outlet to engine

Front near battery box

Rear engine cover alignment pin/rubber

Access panels x 4off

Panels now fitted to each corner to gain access to the hidden space

Still to do before my next outing

* Seal grp top panel to sills
* Aero catches front and back 4 off
* Alignment pins/rubbers at front as per rear engine cover successful experiment
* Steering cover panel
* Exhaust

Hopefully Angus will take another video

References(*)

Access panels: http://www.jupiterblue.co.uk/plastic-circular-access-panel
Offset calculator: http://www.jonathanrowny.com/page/offset-calculator
Alloy Finishings 01236 440411

Contents http://sylvabuild.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/sylva-j15-is-kit-car-designed-by-jeremy.html

 

The foot brake final assembly

The foot brake final assembly

The Sylva J15 has two separate master cylinders and a balance bar. The shape of the bonnet is such that the location of brake reservoir needs to be behind the tank next to the bulkhead otherwise you cannot get sufficient head of fluid (in my opinion). In my case this was a real challenge as my custom tank leaves very little room for the smallest of reservoirs that I could find.

There is also the favourite issue with the balance bar, in that it needs to be wired and an appropriate warning label added.The threads on the balance bar are M11 x 1.25, as it turns out I have a tap and dye for that size so I made some special nuts out of hex bar with locking holes in each hex corner and a turned down bit to lock the bar (see images). I do not claim originality here but I am pleased with the result. It was another item I was not confident about solving elegantly.

I did expect trouble with the RD Euroqip flexible brake pipes, as I had some trouble with the one on the clutch line leaking due to a shard of the ss outer getting into the olive, but this time all eight connectors worked first time. The only leak I had was a poor silver solder job on the lines I made up for the reservoir.

I did have trouble getting the air out of the system, despite my wife's best efforts on the brake pedal. I used my Easybleed and got the air out. I hate using the Easybleed as I find it difficult to control the mess with all that fluid around.

All i need to do now is adjust the balance bar and wire the lock nuts. the images showing the locking wire are for demonstration purposes should the IVA man need convincing.

 



 References

Contents http://sylvabuild.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/sylva-j15-is-kit-car-designed-by-jeremy.html

Fuel filler cap

Fuel filler cap

The tank in my J15 was custom designed by me to give more leg room in the passenger side of the car.  In addition to the custom design a large aircraft style filler was considered desirable to minimise any spillage during filling. At the time of originally writing this I was under the impression I needed a lead free valve for the purposes of the IVA. If you read the comments it became obvious that this fine fabrication was not needed. However I never completely disposed of it and poat IVA I found a use for it. See "Fuel system modifications" 13th Dec 2013.

References

 

Rally Design filler cap

http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=281_303_304&products_id=1786

 

Contents http://sylvabuild.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/sylva-j15-is-kit-car-designed-by-jeremy.html

Heater

Heater

It is essential in Scotland, even with an open topped car to have a heater keeping your legs warm. I have had some great winter journeys in my Westfield and I was so grateful it had a heater.

I found a heater that is just the business for the Sylva, at a reasonable cost too,   Deamon Tweeks.

All I have to do now is plumb it in, the air ducts will go down the sill void.

 

References 

Demon Tweeks:
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/cockpit-ventilation/demon-tweeks-lightweight-heater

Contents http://sylvabuild.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/sylva-j15-is-kit-car-designed-by-jeremy.html

Handbrake cable routing

Handbrake cable routing

The rear uprights on my Sylva J15 are a fabricated part by Jeremy making reuse of the Ford donor drive shafts. Apparently it takes either a VW Passat or Hydra OEM calliper from Rally Design. The main problem with this arrangement is getting an adequate routing where the handbrake cable neither fouls the AVO shocks or more importantly the boot for the outer CV joint. The completed assembly must give a relatively friction free performance for the VOSA/IVA man.

I have thought long and hard about this problem and I have come to the conclusion there is no perfect solution with that Passat calliper. I may have to resort to trying out a hydraulic handbrake calliper if I cannot find a solution soon.

I did measure the outer dimension of the handbrake cable which was 9.5mm (including plastic covering). I also discovered that B&Q supply a piece of 12mm alloy tubing with a 10mm inner hole diameter EAN 3232630508756. I also have a plumbers bending jig for 15 and 22mm pipe. Putting all this together my approach for IVA is to clad the last 400mm of handbrake cable in this alloy tubing and then bend the whole lot to the exact shape to avoid the aforementioned obstacles.

I have now done this and as said before it is far from being an ideal solution but will it be good enough to get me through the test? Your comments are welcome. I can think of various potential pitfalls, like lack of cable flexibility resulting in a fatigue failure of the mechanism. I have jumped up and down on the chassis and it appears to be a good solution.

P.S. I also discovered there is very little clearance between the hydraulic connection and the outer CV boot. See image 2.

References

Contents http://sylvabuild.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/sylva-j15-is-kit-car-designed-by-jeremy.html

Front wheel hub spigot rings

Front wheel hub spigot rings

The front hubs as supplied in my kit are an alloy assembly originally intended for a Caterham (formerly a Triumph Spitfire upright). They do not have Ford 108PCD spigot rings despite the correct Ford 108 stud pattern. Now some readers at this point may not know what I am banging on about.

Here is a quote from AUTO Inparts.com

"What are Spigot Rings and why do I need them?
Spigot Rings (Centre Rings) are used to ensure that an alloy wheel is correctly centred on to the hub of the vehicle. If an alloy wheel is fitted without spigot rings it will probably cause the wheel to vibrate, make it almost impossible to balance, increase uneven tyre wear and in time will work the fixings loose. So, fitting wheels without spigot rings can be very dangerous."

The hubs do have a ring that is 2.6mm high and 58.5mm in diameter. The Ford 108PCD spigot ring is 63mm in diameter and approx 10mm high. I therefore decided to make an alloy adaptor made out of a concentric wheel spacer similar to a DemonTweeks part see reference below.

I managed to get a pair from ebay second hand 10mm thick. These spacers assume there is a spigot ring in place already on your wheel hub and you are placing the spacer on top of the existing ring maintaining concentricity. By turning off 5mm from the inside of the spacer I effectively made a 5mm spacer without the starting camphor provided. I then turned a ring out of 63mm bar that matched the 58mm ring on the inside and the 63mm hole in the wheel spacer. I now have concentric spigot rings on both front hubs. I also have 5mm x 2 extra wheel width at the front. It appears the studs have plenty capacity for the 5mm spacer.

Excessive attention to detail, I don't think so. What do you think?

References

AUTO Inparts.com:
http://www.autoinparts.com/Wheel_nuts,_bolts,_locks,_spacers_and_accessories-Spigot_rings_for_O.E_and_Aftermarket_Alloy_Wheels/c628_897/index.html
Concentric wheel spacer example:
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/wheel-spacers/demon-tweeks-hubcentric-wheel-spacer

Contents http://sylvabuild.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/sylva-j15-is-kit-car-designed-by-jeremy.html



 

 

 

 





The drive shafts and rolling chassis test

The drive shafts and rolling chassis test

I decided to use a company called CPS Drivelink to modify my drive shafts. The chap called Paul Sowerby is very knowledgeable. He proposed to friction weld the shafts using compatible materials. I did consider getting them remade by a chap Jeremy recommended but I got cold feet and decided to use Drivelink one stop refurbishing service and the parts would be ready to go on the car once returned from them.

I found the process of preparing to send them away quite stressful, I was told by Paul to cut and shut them by tack welding after removing a bit in the middle of each shaft and then trying them on the car. Even if I got it wrong he said, as long as long as I told him the error from what I was sending him +/- mm.  I devised a method of measuring the amount (30mm and 40mm) to initially remove the middle sections (see image). I then made up two mild steel sleeves and tack welded the whole lot together again. After I tried them in the car I appended a note to indicate there was no error.

The modified shafts were done within a week including transport, the finished shafts are now in the car and you cannot tell where they have been welded. A test drive of the rolling chassis was now in order. Before doing that I had to connect the clutch hydraulics, another stressful episode as the flexible hose leaked of course. I also had the slave cylinder, flywheel and lightweight clutch assembly replaced earlier in the year so was not 100% confident the cluch actually worked.

Anyway the test drive was a great success despite the only brakes I had was the handbrake.

The engine appeared to run too hot but that was a red herring as the temperature gauge is totally inaccurate for some reason. I checked it with a Laser/IR external device and the temperature is fine 80deg and steady.

Many thanks to my friend Angus for helping with the clutch bleeding and video record.

References

Video http://youtu.be/gv1rk9z7mhQ

Contents http://sylvabuild.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/sylva-j15-is-kit-car-designed-by-jeremy.html